Fashion week Autumn/Winter 2012 Trends that emerged from Paris.

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The natural bare make-up look which was defined into two categories at the Millan fashion week, as either feminine, pretty pinks and girly romance with dewy skin or masculine with matt face and  nude lips, featured on the runways of paris but this time it was taken one step further and more often than the feminine or masculine faces, were the No make-up faces, which sore models looking bare-faced, with not even mascara to wear, some choice to let the models skin and imperfections show through ( although you would need a microscope to see them ! )  whilst others went for the flawless almost airbrushed finish seen at Vionnet.

 

no mascara appeared in a lot of looks in paris fashion week, giving an instant edgy vibe to make-up for the year 2012 at Gareth Pugh,Rochas and Chloe.Another mascara look for those of you like me who just can’t live with out mascara; electric blue eyelashes, seen at London fashion week and now at Paris fashion week with Stella Mcartney

 

first seen at New York fashion week,I thought this was just an alternative look created to be unique and stand out , it turns out the floating eyeliner may be a bit of a trend of its own, seen at Paris fashion week autumn/winter 2012 on Kenzo, Tsmori Chisto and Maison Martin Margiela 

Paris fashion week autumn/winter 2012, has shown us a different  way of wearing our eye make-up for the season, the runways at Paris featured the return of the smokey eyes, as did New york fashion week, both giving the traditional smokey eye make-up a modern update and a twist. Paris fashion week played with the smokey eye, and the result was eyeshadow worn, smudgy/messy and taken right up to the eyebrow. take a look at Limi Feu,Dries Van Noten,Ninni Ricci and John Galliano shows. The look is very rock chic.

The statement make-up at Paris fashion week continued following the theme seen in previous fashion weeks, with the statement lips trend, red, berry, chocolate, grey, blue,gold,burnt orange, the choice is yours, but whatever you decide make a statement.however that being said perhaps best not to leave the house looking like joker gone wrong, a look not for the faint hearted, Halloween perhaps ?

For those days when putting our make-up on is really beyond us, and even creating the perfect no make-up look is just not going to happen, you can always take a leaf out of  Af Vandevorst book, who did away with make-up by giving models a fadora hat worn low over the face with a scarve pulled right up , so the two just about meet. the only make-up sneaking through was the occasional pink blush.

My Favourite Make-up looks unveiled at Paris Fashion week autumn/winter 2012.

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Chanel

The breakout stars of the Chanel catwalk were the gem-encrusted eyebrows  handmade for the show by the legendary Parisian embroidery house of Lesage, rumoured to have taken upto three hours on each set of eyebrows. 

the eyebrows stole the show and served to make the models look both fed up and spectacular.

 

 

 

John Galliano

John Galliano created a lot of drama for his show during Paris Fashion Week. The designer chose a dark and edgy look for his models to showcase his collection. The models were given very dark, smudged eye makeup, with pale skin and minimal color on their lips, accompanied by a windswept updo for their hair.

Makeup artist Pat McGrath created the dark ethereal look of the model’s makeup. “The girls basically got beautiful black-green eyes–very strong and slightly pale on the outside. They just wanted them to look darkly romantic. They were looking at English aristocracy, but wanted the girls to have a real edge,” McGrath said.

John Galliano’s model’s eyes were lined with black on the waterline, with black eye shadow smudged all around the eye, slowly diffusing out into white around the eye socket. Hints of green were smudged along the upper eyelid and under the lower lash line, catching the light in the same way as a black feather will sometimes shine green in the sun.

 

 Vivienne Westwood Gold label

Who better to look to for makeup inspiration than the Italian masters, Caravaggio and Botticelli? Mac’s Val Garland referenced the painters with her Autumn/Winter 2012 look for Vivienne Westwood Gold Label in Paris today.

Vivienne wanted me to create celestial beings as if they were looking up to the heavens, filled with emotion”

To do this, she used a tea-stained wash over eyes and a white pencil blended into the corners to mark these Westwood angels’ tears. Highlighter was applied under the chin, as if the moon was shining under the face, and sequins were placed on the cheeks to show where the tears had fallen. As for the lips, Garland focused on a “3D, matte” texture with a mix of mahogany and caramel colours.

 

Yohji Yamamoto

Backstage Beauty at Yohji Yamamoto Autumn/Winter 2012 with Pat McGrath… Stunning dark two toned lips inspired by Twilight!
The look that Pat created was very vampire! – think Buffy the Vampire Slayer over Twilight. Dark red, black or blue lips with a beautiful gold highlight on the cupids bow to give it that sexy Vampire feel.

completed by dewy fresh skin with focus highlight on the cheekbones. The eyes had a hint of pink gently applied into the models creases, gold was then applied in the inner corner of the eyes- this brought together the gold highlight on the models cupids bow. A soft black eyeliner was applied to the outer corner of the eyes to add definition.

Finally a matte black lip mixed with a plum red matte lipstick added to the centre of the lip- this created a statement two toned blue/gold lip, and a small black beauty spot.

 

 

Manish Arora

Mumbai based fashion designer Manish Arora’s new autumnl/Winter 2012 collection is a prime example of graffiti being accepted and how it inspires many. earlier today Manish debuted his graffiti inspired line at Paris Fashion Week. The barren backdrop was brought to life when a couple of hooded artists came in and pieced the set with the words “Life Is Beautiful”. While models strutted down the runway in clothes that complimented the backdrop, Paris graffiti writers Vision, Rude, and Brok painted, . The designer also collaborated with Brooklyn based street artist Judith Supine on a textile for his collection. While the paint fumes may have left those in attendance feeling light headed, no doubt this buzzworthy performance and vibrant collection will be one of the most memorable shows of the season.One of my favourite make-up looks of Paris fashion week.

 

 

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Tom Pecheux

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Tom Pecheux is known in the fashion inudtry as a runway makeup guru, one of the most sought after make-up artists in the industry and creative director for Estee Lauder cosmetics,the avant garde makeup artist is also behind shiseido. 

He’s been key make-up artist on every major show from Prada to Alberta Ferretti, to Karl Lagerfeld. Tom Pecheux’s work extends to print, and is consistently appearing in major advertising campaigns for brands including Yves Saint Laurent, Gucci, and Missoni, as well as on the covers of major publications like Vogue Paris and Allure. his career has seen him work with stalwart photographers like Mario Testino

Tom Pecheux is famous for creating supernatural and flawless looks.

Tom Pecheux has learnt the tricks of the trade and the skills of a Make-up artist with hands on training and experience whilst working with-in the industry.hard to beleive that Tom Pecheux in typical french style was a pastry maker.

Here is a small interview with Tom Pecheux from Sleek Magazine: -

TOM PECHEUX, lives and works in Paris. The year 1992 marked the beginning of a beautiful friendship with Mario Testino and Carine Roitfeld who encouraged him to pursue a career as a make-up artist. His work on numerous fashion shows for Prada, Alberta Ferretti, Marni, Karl Lagerfeld and many more brought him the title of »runway make-up guru«. He’s also worked as colour creator for cosmetic companies like Shiseido, as well as being the favourite make-up artist of celebrities such as Madonna, Kate Moss, Nicole Kidman and Jennifer Aniston.

SLEEK
: The term is Make-up Artist. Have you ever wished you could nail one of your masterpieces to the wall? What remains of your work after the job is done?

TOM PECHEUX
: I think the biggest advantage the make-up artist has over the artists is that you get to work in a team. The most important person in that team is, of course, the model. You build up quite an intimate relationship with models, sometimes a friendship, over your time working together. This is all more or less a psychological process and that’s why, even when the make up is removed at the end of the day, there’s a lot that remains – memories in particular.

SLEEK: Is your after always better than before‹?

TP: Fortunately, no one has ever said to me Oh no, take it off – I looked better before! The best compliment is when someone says »now I look good and not the make-up looks good. What’s important is how you capture a person’s personality and reflect this in the make-up. The nude look, which I prefer, particularly highlights a personality and doesn’t alter it.

SLEEK: From the past, present and future, who are the top 5 faces on your best made-up wish list? And the top 5 faces in most need of your artistic talents?

TP: Two of my favourite faces that I’ve worked on belong to Madonna and Kate Moss. Madonna is unique. She has been in the business for decades and has managed to constantly change her.

Estee Lauder Cosmetics Debut at Paris Autumn/Winter Fashion Week 2012

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Estée Lauder does Paris Fashion Week for the very first time, creating the amazing backstage beauty looks at Anthony Vaccarello Autumn/winter 2012.

 Estée Lauder embarked upon Paris Fashion Week for the first time ever this week, as sponsors of the beauty look makeup and nails at the Anthony Vaccarello show.

The look was all very Midnight in Paris as Tom Pecheux, Estée Lauder’s Creative Makeup Director, said that he was inspired to create a ‘Paris by night look’ with sultry, sexy eye makeup. The result is a glossy, burgundy-black eye with lashings of black mascara teamed with nude lips, contoured cheeks and green-black nails.

“The collection is magical – very sexy, very luxurious, very fresh, very young. The focus is on the eyes. For me, the eyes represent the Parisian woman, it’s her signature. Anthony is a young designer, and it is important to keep the makeup young and fresh.The inspiration is Parisian women late at night,”

Pecheux is so well versed in the way of nude lips and sultry eyes, he has even designed a limited-edition color collection for Lauder in homage to the “naughty-chic” aesthetic, as he likes to call it.

Tom Pecheux created the look by …..

Prepping skin with a blend of its Idealist Pore Minimizing Skin Refinisher and

DayWear Advanced Multi-Protection Anti-Oxidant Creme SPF 15,

applied a veil of Estée Lauder Double Wear Light Stay-in-Place Makeup SPF 10  

a “little bit of contour,” courtesy of its Bronze Goddess Soft Shimmer Bronzer.

Lips were painted nude with its Pure Color Long Lasting Lipstick in Vanilla Truffle, which Pecheux matted down with translucent powder.

Double Wear Stay-in-Place Lip Pencil in Wine that he topped with a dollop of its Pure Color Gloss in Opulent Opal to add a multi-dimensional glimmer that referenced the iridescent fabrics in the middle of Vaccarello’s collection.

But what made these girls beautiful Parisian women was a focus on the eyes, and the eyebrows.

he filled in and brushed up the brows using Lauder’s Artist’s Brow Pencil Double Groomer.

Lids were layered with a combination of its Double Wear Stay-in-Place Eye Pencil in Onyx, which Pecheux drew around the outer corner of the eyes

and in strokes underneath the lower lash line, only to smudge them later with his finger, and a mix of shimmering black and berry shadows. ”

I’m using a burgundy pencil just inside the eye,”

Tom Pecheux finished the look with glitter-flecked salve across her eyes.

 

Key Trends emerging from Milan fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2012.

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Nude feminine or Masculine make-up

The natural nude make-up is definitely a key trend for autumn/winter 2012 now seen at New York, London and Milan Fashion week. The look at Milan was either a masculine nude, with matt nude lips or a pretty feminine natural look with girly soft pinks.

  • Alberta Ferretti-Diane Kendal M.A.C
  • No.21
  • MaxMara
  • Luisa Beccaria
  • Marco de Vinceno
  • Emilio Pucci
  • Trussardi
  • Dolce & Gabbanna
  • Missoni
  • Uma Wang

Smokey eye make-up

smokey eye make-up has popped up at New York, London and Milan.Milan fashion week Autumn/winter 2012 seemed to favour the smokey eye more than most, either done in the classic deep browns,greys and blacks or done with a twist in blues, purples, and greens.

  • Etro
  • Just Cavalli
  • Iceburg
  • Bluemarine
  • Versace
  • Antonio Marras
  • Salvatore Ferraganno
  • Gianfranco Ferre

Haunting sombre face.

I have noticed a craze at the fashion weeks of Autumn/Winter 2012 for the haunting face, with hollowed out, sunken eyes,paler than pale lifeless lips and skin just as pale. the look is very sombre,almost tired looking with sore eyes, it is strangely really quite pretty and  almost romantic, perhaps because the make-up makes the wearer look delicate and vulnerable.

  • Francesco Scognamiglio
  • Ter et Bantine
  • Marni

Other trends

Milan carried on the key fashion make-up trends seen at New York and London fashion week with Bright red lips taking centre stage at Sportmax,whilst Etro’s make-up look was a deep rust red and Bottega Veneta models wore deep dark plum lips with just the socket line of the eyes defined.The eyeliner trend was still very much there and seen at Moschino, and the love of colour throughout the fashion weeks with brights being a key trend was spotted at Emporio Armani, the make-up was a pale natural face with nude lips and triangles of red sweeping out in a solid block of colour out of the outer corner of the eyes.and Aquilano Rimondi Models wore natural make-up with pale pink glossy lips and bright aqua green in the sockets lines to add colour to the overall look.

Blocks of colour were used for a lot of make-up looks at Milan. The colour was left solid and unblended in graphic styling. seen at Georgio Armani,and Antonio Marras.

Make-up Trends Im not to sure about from Milan Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2012.

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prada

Virtual Dolls come virtual princess’s were created for Gucci, the beauty team taking their inspiration from Japanese Manga/anime characters, with long dip dyed polker straight hair styles and cartoon like eyemake-up. Not sure the make-up trend for cartoon make-up, also sin with philip lim at New York fashion week, creating looks that wouldn’t look out-of-place in  Sin city will stay around. The dip dye multi tonal hair creations, inspired by manga have taken off in a big way, and are here to stay, which makes me a very happy girly.

Marni

Tim Burton meets The Addams Family, With long and straight hair and fringe’s, Combined with hollowed-out,sombre  eyes by make-up artist Tom Pecheux, The eyes to me made the models look like they had tired, sore eyes, the kind of eyes you get when you have been awake crying all night long. Never ever a good look on anyone, don’t try this at home !  Morticia Addams eat your heart out.

Pat McGrath

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McGrath was raised in Northampton, England by her mother Jean McGrath, a Jamaican immigrant.McGrath credits her mother for her love of fashion and make-up, saying that Jean would comment on clothes as they watched classic movies together.McGrath has no formal training in fashion or make-up, having completed only an art foundation course at a Northampton college. Of her career, she has said, “I really love being a makeup artist. It never gets mundane or predictable and every shoot and show is different.”

McGrath’s career breakthrough came while working with Edward Enninful (then fashion editor of i-D magazine) in the early 1990s, when her innovative use of color “brilliantly solved the world’s ennui with grunge” and helped launch i-D to a position of international importance. In the mid-1990s, she worked both with minimalist Jil Sander and with surrealist John Galliano, where she became known for her “latex petals stuck to faces, vinyl lips, bodies drenched in powder paint, [and] stylized Kabuki physiognomies.”

Since then, McGrath has worked with photographers including Steven Meisel (who now rarely shoots without her),Paolo Roversi,Helmut Newton,and Peter Lindbergh. In addition to appearing in i-D, photos of her work have been published in fashion magazines including American, English, and French Vogue, W, and Harper’s Bazaar.She attends four fashion show seasons (counting couture) each yearand has worked with designers

including Prada, Miu Miu, Comme des Garçons, and Dolce and Gabbana.Additionally, she designed Armani’s cosmetics line in 1999 and in 2004 was named global creative-design director for Procter and Gamble, where she is in charge of Max Factor and Cover Girl cosmetics, among other brands. During McGrath’s constant travels to work locations, she takes between thirty and fifty bags of materials, tools, and reference materials.

As a makeup artist, McGrath is known for her wide range; according to Edward Enninful, her work spans from “the highest couture to club kids”.She is also known for her inventive use of materials: her most creative make-up is handmade, and she works mainly with her fingers instead of with brushes.

In an interview with Vogue.com UK during London Fashion Week (Sept. 2008) McGrath explained her creative process, saying: “I’m influenced a lot by the fabrics that I see, the colours that are in the collections, and the girls’ faces. It’s always a challenge but that’s the key – to make it different every time

source…wikipedia